{"id":7597,"date":"2025-11-11T13:27:04","date_gmt":"2025-11-11T12:27:04","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/ultimapackrafts.cz\/?p=7597"},"modified":"2025-11-12T11:49:58","modified_gmt":"2025-11-12T10:49:58","slug":"zaslouzena-reka","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/ultimapackrafts.cz\/en\/zaslouzena-reka\/","title":{"rendered":"The Deserved River \u2013 250 km through Swedish Lapland along the Kaitum\u00e4lven and Vistas\u00e4lven rivers (and also on foot)"},"content":{"rendered":"
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Packrafty Voyager Eddy HC a Eddy, Honza, Petr, Luk\u00e1\u0161 a Jarda v c\u00edli expedice po v\u00edce ne\u017e dvou t\u00fddnech putov\u00e1n\u00ed<\/p><\/div>\n

Brzy\u00a0r\u00e1no se z\u00a0ohni\u0161t\u011b je\u0161t\u011b kou\u0159\u00ed. Sta\u010d\u00ed jen trochu p\u0159ilo\u017eit, rozfoukat a za chv\u00edli u\u017e bubl\u00e1 nad plameny \u010daj v\u00a0e\u0161usu. Jen p\u00e1r krok\u016f vedle bur\u00e1c\u00ed \u0161estkov\u00fd vodop\u00e1d, kter\u00fd se barv\u00ed do \u010dervena v\u00a0z\u00e1\u0159i vych\u00e1zej\u00edc\u00edho slunce. Na pozdn\u011b letn\u00ed pom\u011bry \u0161v\u00e9dsk\u00e9ho Laponska si ho u\u017e\u00edv\u00e1me ji\u017e des\u00e1t\u00fd den nezvykle \u010dasto. A to n\u00e1m samoz\u0159ejm\u011b nevad\u00ed.<\/em><\/p>\n

Jsme na \u0159ece Kaitum\u00e4lven a t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 t\u00fdden jsme nezavadili o lidskou bytost. Spole\u010dnost n\u00e1m d\u011blaj\u00ed jen losi, sobi, orli, stovky labut\u00ed a jin\u00fdch pt\u00e1k\u016f. Lov\u00edme \u0161tiky a siveny, do ka\u0161\u00ed sb\u00edr\u00e1me bor\u016fvky jak vrata a brusinky \u010derven\u00e9 jak Karkulka, va\u0159\u00edme \u010dasto na ohni jako kdysi a sp\u00edme na m\u00edstech, u kter\u00fdch proud\u00ed voda, kter\u00e1 chutn\u00e1 jako \u017e\u00e1dn\u00e1 jin\u00e1.<\/em><\/p>\n

Ale to v\u0161e jsme si museli zaslou\u017eit\u2026<\/em><\/p>\n

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WW VI Killinge<\/p><\/div>\n

Evropsk\u00e1 packraftov\u00e1 komunita roste ka\u017ed\u00fdm rokem a \u010das od \u010dasu se na r\u016fzn\u00fdch f\u00f3rech objev\u00ed v\u00fdlet, kter\u00fd stoj\u00ed za to. A to byl pr\u00e1v\u011b p\u0159\u00edpad Filipa a Didiera, kte\u0159\u00ed p\u0159ed dv\u011bma lety podnikli par\u00e1dn\u00ed \u0161vih po \u0159ek\u00e1ch Vistas\u00e4lven a Kaitum\u00e4lven ve \u0161v\u00e9dsk\u00e9m Laponsku. Tehdy je zastavila sn\u011bhov\u00e1 bou\u0159e n\u011bjak\u00fdch 60 kilometr\u016f p\u0159ed c\u00edlem.<\/p>\n

Ob\u011b \u0159eky se \u010das od \u010dasu objevuj\u00ed v hled\u00e1\u010dku vod\u00e1k\u016f, ale z d\u016fvodu t\u011b\u017ek\u00e9ho p\u0159\u00edstupu se zde \u017e\u00e1dn\u00e1 masov\u00e1 turistika nekon\u00e1. S pevnou nebo klasickou velkou nafukovac\u00ed lod\u00ed m\u00e1te jedinou \u0161anci – hydropl\u00e1n, kter\u00fd v\u00e1s vyhod\u00ed na n\u011bkter\u00e9m z jezer na Kaitum\u00e4lven.<\/p>\n

Pokud v\u0161ak chcete v\u0161e spojit v\u00a0logick\u00fd celek, pot\u0159ebujete packraft. Teprve s\u00a0n\u00edm se m\u016f\u017eete vydat na 250km v\u00fdpravu z\u00a0Abiska do Lappeasuanda, b\u011bhem n\u00ed\u017e ujdete n\u011bjak\u00fdch 90 km p\u011b\u0161ky a zbytek str\u00e1v\u00edte na n\u00e1dhern\u00fdch neregulovan\u00fdch \u0159ek\u00e1ch. A pr\u00e1v\u011b to byl n\u00e1\u0161 p\u0159\u00edpad.<\/p>\n

Han\u010dovina s t\u0159iceti kily na z\u00e1dech<\/h3>\n

Po letu do Stockholmu a noci str\u00e1ven\u00e9 ve vlaku stoj\u00edme v\u00a0pozdn\u00edm odpoledni posledn\u00edho srpnov\u00e9ho v\u00edkendu na n\u00e1dra\u017e\u00ed v\u00a0n\u00e1rodn\u00edm parku Abisko na severu \u0160v\u00e9dska zhruba 200 km nad severn\u00edm pol\u00e1rn\u00edm kruhem a m\u00e1me p\u0159ed sebou 16 dn\u016f putov\u00e1n\u00ed. Pou\u010deni z\u00a0p\u0159edchoz\u00edch expedic jsme si na v\u00fdpravu ud\u011blali o n\u011bco v\u00edce \u010dasu, ne\u017e by bylo teoreticky t\u0159eba. To abychom nemuseli sp\u011bchat. Ono tedy\u2026 s\u00a0t\u0159icetikilov\u00fdmi batohy na z\u00e1dech se sp\u011bch\u00e1 stejn\u011b ne \u00fapln\u011b dob\u0159e.<\/p>\n

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Petr a prvn\u00ed kroky v Laponsku<\/p><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

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Packraft je sice opravdu lehk\u00e1 a skladn\u00e1 lo\u010f, ale kdy\u017e k\u00a0n\u011bmu p\u0159id\u00e1te ve\u0161kerou v\u00fdbavu na divokou vodu, vestu, helmu, p\u00e1dlo, h\u00e1ze\u010dku, such\u00e1\u010d, boty, n\u011bjak\u00e9 ty \u0161\u0148\u016fry a karabiny, pak jste n\u011bkde okolo deseti kil. Jen\u017ee d\u00e1l to m\u00e1te \u2013 stan, spac\u00e1k, karimatka, va\u0159i\u010d, e\u0161usy, no\u017ee, l\u017e\u00edce, dost m\u00e1lo oble\u010den\u00ed, hodn\u011b j\u00eddla, cajky na ryba\u0159inu, 5 kilo kamerek, baterek, dron\u016f, nab\u00edje\u010dek, kabel\u016f a powerbank, to abychom z\u00a0toho mohli st\u0159ihnout kr\u00e1tk\u00fd film, l\u00e9k\u00e1rnu na lo\u010f a \u010dlov\u011bka (ani jedna z\u00a0nich nebyla t\u0159eba) a klobou\u010dek s\u00a0p\u00edrkem soj\u010d\u00edm na hled\u00e1n\u00ed ztracen\u00e9ho ml\u00e1d\u00ed, je 30 kg hranic\u00ed, pod n\u00ed\u017e se dostal jen m\u00e1lokdo z\u00a0na\u0161\u00ed \u0161esti\u010dlenn\u00e9 v\u00fdpravy.<\/p>\n

V\u00e1hu batoh\u016f poci\u0165ujeme ji\u017e prvn\u00edho dne, kter\u00fd zakon\u010dujeme po p\u00e1r kilometrech na jednom ze dvou m\u00edst, kde lze v\u00a0n\u00e1rodn\u00edm parku Abisko ofici\u00e1ln\u011b stanovat. Lidupr\u00e1zdn\u00e1 divo\u010dina se zde zat\u00edm nekon\u00e1. Naopak u ohn\u011b tu sed\u00ed p\u00e1r \u010desk\u00fdch tramp\u016f, a tak se c\u00edt\u00edme jak pod Pikovickou jehlou, jen \u0159eka u kempu je o n\u011bco \u0161ir\u0161\u00ed a rychlej\u0161\u00ed. Prvn\u00ed dva dny cesty se toti\u017e shoduj\u00ed s\u00a0profl\u00e1knutou trekovou legendou Kungsleden, \u201eKr\u00e1lovskou stezkou\u201c na kterou m\u00ed\u0159\u00ed ka\u017ed\u00fd rok stovky turist\u016f. V\u00a0pl\u00e1nov\u00e1n\u00ed v\u00fdletu jsme se sekli zhruba o dva t\u00fddny. Pokud vyraz\u00edte okolo poloviny z\u00e1\u0159\u00ed, budou v\u0161echny chaty na trase ji\u017e zav\u0159en\u00e9, co\u017e se rovn\u00e1 t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 absolutn\u00ed samot\u011b. Ale co u\u017e \u2013 ty dva dny n\u011bjak v\u0161echny ty Japon\u010d\u00edky a Am\u00edky p\u0159e\u017eijeme.<\/p>\n

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Jedno ze dvou m\u00edst na t\u00e1bo\u0159en\u00ed v n\u00e1rodn\u00edm parku Abisko<\/p><\/div>\n

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Kolem jezera \u00c1beskoj\u00e1vri<\/p><\/div>\n

Slo\u017een\u00ed skupiny a jej\u00edho vybaven\u00ed je pestr\u00e9. Jsou tu ost\u0159\u00edlen\u00ed packrafte\u0159i Piskin a Bluebell, kte\u0159\u00ed ne\u00fanavn\u011b testovali od zimy r\u016fzn\u00e9 mysliteln\u00e9 setupy, a\u017e si nechali u\u0161\u00edt na m\u00edru jejich proporc\u00edm packrafty Ultima Eddy HC s\u00a0Tizipem. Na rozd\u00edl od nich Luk\u00e1\u0161 a Jarda sed\u011bli na packraftu jednou v\u00a0\u017eivot\u011b a bag\u00e1\u017e vezou v\u00a0batoz\u00edch zabalen\u00fdch do igelitov\u00fdch pytl\u016f na palub\u00e1ch packraft\u016f Ultima Eddy. Pak jsem tu j\u00e1 testuj\u00edc\u00ed lo\u010f Voyager s Tizipem, kter\u00e1 m\u00e1 b\u00fdt ur\u010dena do budoucna pr\u00e1v\u011b na podobn\u00e9 \u0161treky \u2013 je lehk\u00e1, hodn\u011b uveze a v\u00a0pohod\u011b zvl\u00e1dne t\u011b\u017e\u0161\u00ed divokou vodu, kter\u00e9 je p\u0159ed n\u00e1mi opravdu dost. A pak je tu Petr, kter\u00fd se na rozd\u00edl od n\u00e1s \u010dty\u0159ic\u00e1tn\u00edk\u016f narodil d\u0159\u00edve, ne\u017e Zl\u00edn p\u0159ejmenovali na Gottwaldov, a jestli\u017ee v\u00a0pades\u00e1ti sk\u00e1kal vodop\u00e1dy na Korsice, dnes se vyd\u00e1v\u00e1 v\u00a0t\u0159iasedmdes\u00e1ti na cestu, kter\u00e9 se d\u00edky sv\u00e9mu v\u011bku krapet ob\u00e1v\u00e1.<\/p>\n

\u201eDy\u0165 je to tu jak v\u00a0Peci u lanovky na Sn\u011b\u017eku,\u201c vy\u010d\u00edt\u00e1 mi druh\u00e9ho dne Jarda v\u00a0okam\u017eiku, kdy se n\u00e1s dal\u0161\u00ed Japonec pt\u00e1, jestli hodl\u00e1me jet zp\u011bt do Abiska po \u0159ece Abiskojakka. K\u00e9\u017e by. Na\u0161e cesta vede opa\u010dn\u00fdm sm\u011brem pod\u00e9l jezera \u00c1beskoj\u00e1vri, kde se st\u00e1\u010d\u00ed je\u0161t\u011b v\u00edce na jih a za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1 stoupat p\u0159es h\u0159eben, aby n\u00e1sledn\u011b sklesala do \u00fadol\u00ed s\u00edt\u011b jezer Alisj\u00e1vri. Tam se v\u0161ak nedostaneme, nebo\u0165 po necel\u00fdch 20 km pochodu abdikujeme s\u00a0rameny na dranc kdesi v\u00a0mo\u010d\u00e1lech t\u011bsn\u011b nad jezery pod horou Ribakb\u00e1kti. Jsme ji\u017e slu\u0161nou d\u00e1vku kilometr\u016f za hranicemi n\u00e1rodn\u00edho parku a stav\u00edme stany. Nelibost z\u00a0ne \u00fapln\u011b ide\u00e1ln\u00edho m\u00edsta miz\u00ed se z\u00e1padem slunce, kter\u00fd m\u011bn\u00ed smutnou krajinu v\u00a0neskute\u010dnou hru sv\u011btla, st\u00edn\u016f a sob\u016f na horizontu se objevuj\u00edc\u00edch.<\/p>\n

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Klasick\u00e9 d\u0159ev\u011bn\u00e9 l\u00e1vky p\u0159es laponsk\u00e9 mok\u0159ady<\/p><\/div>\n

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Bluebell<\/p><\/div>\n

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Petr, Jarda a Luk\u00e1\u0161 odleh\u010duj\u00ed b\u00e1gly p\u0159i p\u0159echodu sedla<\/p><\/div>\n

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Stanov\u00fd t\u00e1bor druh\u00e9 noci<\/p><\/div>\n

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Laponsk\u00e1 par\u00e1da p\u0159i setm\u011bn\u00ed<\/p><\/div>\n

Tak\u00e9 dal\u0161\u00ed den se trm\u00e1c\u00edme po pe\u010dliv\u011b upraven\u00fdch cest\u00e1ch a pe\u010dliv\u011b ohoblovan\u00fdch fo\u0161n\u00e1ch p\u0159et\u00ednaj\u00edc\u00edch bahnit\u00e9 \u00faseky. Nebe je t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 bez mrak\u016f a vzduch bez kom\u00e1r\u016f. Ve\u010der stav\u00ed n\u011bkte\u0159\u00ed stany u chaty Abiskojaurestugorna, co\u017e s\u00a0pr\u00e1vem vyu\u017e\u00edt saunu \u010d\u00edt\u00e1 300 SEK, a n\u011bkte\u0159\u00ed berou za vd\u011bk st\u0159echou nad hlavou za dvojn\u00e1sobek. Rozhodnut\u00ed je to ov\u0161em spr\u00e1vn\u00e9, nebo\u0165 klasick\u00e9 saunov\u00e9 tmelen\u00ed n\u00e1rod\u016f se skoky do ledov\u00fdch vod \u0159eky vt\u00e9kaj\u00edc\u00ed do jezera je nutnost\u00ed ka\u017ed\u00e9ho seversk\u00e9ho v\u00fdletu.<\/p>\n

\u201eNa cel\u00e9m Kungsledenu nen\u00ed pivo!\u201c hl\u00e1s\u00ed obrovsk\u00fd Fin h\u00e1ze oblig\u00e1tn\u011b ledovou vodu na rozp\u00e1len\u00e1 kamna. Chata\u0159i maj\u00ed pap\u00edr s\u00a0t\u00edm, co maj\u00ed m\u00edt povinn\u011b v\u00a0invent\u00e1\u0159i, a pivo na n\u011bm chyb\u00ed. Tak\u017ee do\u0161lo zhruba p\u0159ed t\u00fddnem!\u201c Debata o pivu se pomalu sta\u010d\u00ed k\u00a0politice, nebo\u0165 je tu i sedmdes\u00e1tilet\u00fd Ameri\u010dan, kter\u00fd pr\u00fd rozhodn\u011b nevol\u00ed Trumpa a byl-li by mlad\u0161\u00ed, ji\u017e by se dom\u016f nevr\u00e1til. Po p\u00e1r rund\u00e1ch je n\u00e1m tak akor\u00e1t na IKEA kuli\u010dky z\u00a0konzervy a noc pod oblaky, nad nimi\u017e m\u00e1 b\u00fdt dnes vid\u011bt pol\u00e1rn\u00ed z\u00e1\u0159e.<\/p>\n

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Kr\u00e1sn\u00e9 r\u00e1no<\/p><\/div>\n

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U jezera R\u00e1duj\u00e1vri<\/p><\/div>\n

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\u010cas na ob\u011bd, voda je tu pitn\u00e1 p\u0159\u00edmo z jezera samoz\u0159ejm\u011b<\/p><\/div>\n

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73 let a 30 kilo na z\u00e1dech – \u017e\u00e1dn\u00fd probl\u00e9m<\/p><\/div>\n

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N\u00e1dhern\u00fd pozdn\u011b letn\u00ed den sm\u011brem k chalup\u011b<\/p><\/div>\n

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Ka\u017ed\u00fd s jinou taktikou – Jarda odleh\u010duje z\u00e1d\u016fm b\u0159i\u0161n\u00edm batohem, Piskin blufuje a Petr je sm\u00ed\u0159en s osudem<\/p><\/div>\n

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10 km po v\u010derej\u0161\u00ed n\u00e1lo\u017ei sta\u010dilo a bereme za vd\u011bk chatou<\/p><\/div>\n

Nebojte, k vod\u011b jsme nakonec do\u0161li. V tomto okam\u017eiku j\u00ed m\u00e1me p\u0159ed sebou je\u0161t\u011b po\u0159\u00e1d n\u011bjak\u00fdch 150 km. Vy\u017eadovalo to v\u0161ak p\u0159echod dal\u0161\u00edho pr\u016fsmyku, kone\u010dn\u011b mimo Kungsleden. Za cel\u00fd dal\u0161\u00ed den tak potk\u00e1me v n\u00e1dhern\u011b se otev\u00edraj\u00edc\u00edm \u00fadol\u00ed Visttasv\u00e1gi jen p\u00e1r p\u00e1r\u016f nohou. Z dvojice jezer \u010cazaj\u00e1vri p\u0159\u00edmo v nejvy\u0161\u0161\u00edm bod\u011b dne\u0161n\u00edho putov\u00e1n\u00ed pramen\u00ed n\u00e1\u0161 prvn\u00ed c\u00edl \u2013 \u0159eka Vistassjohka, nebo tak\u00e9 Vistas\u00e4lven. Ne\u017e zmohutn\u00ed do packraftovateln\u00e9 podoby, uplyne ov\u0161em je\u0161t\u011b p\u00e1r hodin a kilometr\u016f. Nased\u00e1me nakonec u soutoku s ledovcov\u00fdm potokem Unna Vistasa\u0161. Kone\u010dn\u011b. Po pades\u00e1ti kilometrech pochodu n\u00e1s \u010dek\u00e1 druh\u00e1 etapa na\u0161eho putov\u00e1n\u00ed \u2013 n\u011bjak\u00fdch 40 km pr\u00e1v\u011b na \u0159ece Vistas\u00e4lven.<\/p>\n

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Cestou k Vist\u011b – v\u011btrn\u00fd pr\u016fsmyk<\/p><\/div>\n

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Prvn\u00ed z jezer – zde pramen\u00ed Vistas\u00e4lven<\/p><\/div>\n

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P\u0159\u00edtok Visty pramen\u00edc\u00ed vyt\u00e9kaj\u00edc\u00ed z ledovce o n\u011bco v\u00fd\u0161e<\/p><\/div>\n

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N\u00e1dhern\u00e9 \u00fadol\u00ed Vistasjohkka<\/p><\/div>\n

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Pod\u00e9l \u0159eky – \u010dek\u00e1me, a\u017e bude dost vody<\/p><\/div>\n

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Kone\u010dn\u011b, po t\u0159ech dnech putov\u00e1n\u00ed m\u016f\u017eeme nafouknout packrafty<\/p><\/div>\n

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Pro put in jsme nemohli naj\u00edt kr\u00e1sn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed m\u00edsto<\/p><\/div>\n

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Je\u0161t\u011b natemperovat – v \u0159ece je v\u0161ude \u010dern\u00fd p\u00edsek<\/p><\/div>\n

Je u\u017e pozdn\u00ed odpoledne a jen velmi pomalu se sna\u017e\u00edme uko\u010d\u00edrovat ultrabordel p\u0159ebalen\u00ed z\u00a0p\u011b\u0161\u00edho pochodu na plavbu po \u0159ece. Pomal\u00fdm tempem vyr\u00e1\u017e\u00edme na prvn\u00ed kr\u00e1tk\u00fd \u00fasek zhruba po hodin\u011b. \u0158eka tu pomalu meadruje, vody nen\u00ed mnoho, a tak \u010das od \u010dasu brouzd\u00e1me po dn\u011b a packraft za sebou t\u00e1hneme jako poslu\u0161n\u00e9ho psa. P\u0159ich\u00e1zej\u00ed prvn\u00ed pe\u0159ejky a brzy i dne\u0161n\u00ed c\u00edl u chaty Vistasstugan. Chata\u0159 m\u00e1 pivo pr\u00fd jen pro sebe, tud\u00ed\u017e stav\u00edme stany na druh\u00e9m b\u0159ehu \u0159eky a spokoj\u00edme se s\u00a0v\u00fdbornou ledovou vodou a oblig\u00e1tn\u00edmi t\u011bstovinami od Maggi.<\/p>\n

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Prvn\u00ed metry na Vistas\u00e4lven<\/p><\/div>\n

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Poklidn\u00fdch 5 km a konec dne – va\u0159en\u00ed na ohni, to je z\u00e1klad ka\u017ed\u00e9ho putov\u00e1n\u00ed<\/p><\/div>\n

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Jarda, p\u00e1n ohn\u011b<\/p><\/div>\n

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Jak se dnes \u0159\u00edk\u00e1, no filter, kr\u00e1sn\u00fd z\u00e1pad slunce<\/p><\/div>\n

Kone\u010dn\u011b \u0159eka – divok\u00e1<\/h3>\n

R\u00e1no je poprv\u00e9 \u0161ediv\u00e9 a sem tam de\u0161tiv\u00e9. Pod mostem u chaty nafukujeme znovu packrafty a s\u00a0lehkou nervozitou vyr\u00e1\u017e\u00edme. Dnes n\u00e1s \u010dek\u00e1 pe\u0159ejnat\u00e1 \u010d\u00e1st \u0159eky s\u00a0obt\u00ed\u017enost\u00ed a\u017e do WW V. Na rozkouk\u00e1n\u00ed to p\u011bkn\u011b houpe, \u0159eka je \u00fazk\u00e1, sem tam padl\u00fd strom, kter\u00fd jde ov\u0161em lehce objet. Scoutujeme prvn\u00ed \u010dty\u0159ku s\u00a0dv\u011bma v\u011bt\u0161\u00edmi v\u00e1lci \u2013 proj\u00ed\u017ed\u00edme ji po jednom s\u00a0p\u0159\u00edpadnou z\u00e1chranou \u010dekaj\u00edc\u00ed s\u00a0h\u00e1ze\u010dkou na b\u0159ehu. Bez ztr\u00e1ty kyti\u010dky.<\/p>\n

\"\"

Su\u0161en\u00ed pono\u017eek po sn\u00eddani<\/p><\/div>\n

\"\"

Posledn\u00ed p\u0159\u00edpravy – Jarda s Luk\u00e1\u0161em jedou bez Tizipu, b\u00e1gly maj\u00ed v igelitech na p\u0159\u00eddi, na z\u00e1di a v\u0161ude kolem<\/p><\/div>\n

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Posledn\u00ed porada o tom, jak budeme postupovat po \u0159ece, kterou nikdo nezn\u00e1<\/p><\/div>\n

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Prvn\u00ed men\u0161\u00ed pe\u0159ejky<\/p><\/div>\n

\"\"

A prvn\u00ed trojka z\u00e1jezdu<\/p><\/div>\n

\"\"

Pohled z kokpitu testovac\u00edho zat\u00ed\u017een\u00ed nov\u00e9ho packraftu Ultima Voyager<\/p><\/div>\n

\"\"

Kone\u010dn\u011b divok\u00e1 voda<\/p><\/div>\n

V\u011bt\u0161\u00ed sousto \u010dek\u00e1 pod ocelov\u00fdm mostem. \u0158eka se tu \u0159\u00edt\u00ed do \u00fazk\u00e9ho ka\u0148onu pln\u00e9ho kamen\u016f a o n\u011bjak\u00e9ho p\u016fl kilometru n\u00ed\u017ee se t\u0159\u00ed\u0161t\u00ed do nep\u0159ehledn\u00e9ho kamenit\u00e9ho pole. S\u00a0pln\u011b nalo\u017een\u00fdmi packrafty n\u00e1s \u010dek\u00e1 p\u0159en\u00e1\u0161ka po prav\u00e9m b\u0159ehu p\u0159es mo\u010d\u00e1ly v\u0161eho druhu a pod pe\u0159ej\u00ed pak zaslou\u017een\u00e1 gul\u00e1\u0161ovka.<\/p>\n

\"\"

WW V za mostem – nep\u0159ehledn\u00fd bordel p\u0159en\u00e1\u0161\u00edme<\/p><\/div>\n

\"\"

N\u00e1lo\u017e v Tizipu = packraft m\u00e1 p\u0159es 30 kilo<\/p><\/div>\n

\"\"

Ob\u011bdov\u00e1 pauza na kr\u00e1sn\u00e9m m\u00edst\u011b pod pe\u0159ej\u00ed<\/p><\/div>\n

Pod p\u011btkou n\u00e1sleduje dlouh\u00e1 pas\u00e1\u017e pe\u0159ej\u00ed r\u016fzn\u00e9 obt\u00ed\u017enosti. \u0158ada packrafter\u016f, kte\u0159\u00ed Vistu absolvovali p\u0159ed n\u00e1mi, v\u0161e \u0159e\u0161ila \u010dty\u0159kilometrovou port\u00e1\u017e\u00ed po lev\u00e9m b\u0159ehu, ale to bychom z\u00a0\u0159eky nem\u011bli nic. Rozhodujeme se tedy pro plavbu a ta stoj\u00ed za to. \u0158eka je t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 neust\u00e1le pe\u0159ejnat\u00e1, n\u011bkde v\u00edce, n\u011bkde m\u00e9n\u011b. N\u011bco jedeme na oko, dva h\u016f\u0159e vypadaj\u00edc\u00ed kousky rad\u011bji prohl\u00ed\u017e\u00edme ze b\u0159ehu. V\u0161e plyne rychle a vesele a po p\u00e1r hodin\u00e1ch m\u00e1me za sebou posledn\u00ed kr\u00e1snou dlouhou technickou trojku. Pak u\u017e \u0159eka te\u010de m\u00e9n\u011b a m\u00e9n\u011b, a\u017e se skoro zastav\u00ed.<\/p>\n

\"\"

Kr\u00e1sn\u00e9 pe\u0159ejnat\u00e9 \u00faseky kolem WW III<\/p><\/div>\n

\"\"

Tady top trochu \u017eere – ale nese\u017eralo, cel\u00fd v\u00fdlet jsme projeli bez jedin\u00e9ho cvaknut\u00ed<\/p><\/div>\n

\"\"

Bluebell a Eddy HC<\/p><\/div>\n

\"\"

Jarda a Eddy s n\u00e1lo\u017e\u00ed na p\u0159\u00eddi<\/p><\/div>\n

\"\"

Pln\u00e1 v\u00fdbava<\/p><\/div>\n

\"\"

Dal\u0161\u00ed postup \u0159ekou Vistas\u00e4lven na oko<\/p><\/div>\n

\"\"

A posledn\u00ed t\u011b\u017e\u0161\u00ed m\u00edsto ofiko WW III – tady jsme scoutovali<\/p><\/div>\n

\"\"

Dlouh\u00e1 kr\u00e1sn\u00e1 troj\u010di\u010dka<\/p><\/div>\n

V\u00a0de\u0161tiv\u00e9m odpoledni nach\u00e1z\u00edme \u00fato\u010di\u0161t\u011b v\u00a0los\u00edm z\u00e1chod\u011b v\u00a0b\u0159ezov\u00e9m les\u00edku. Opou\u0161t\u00ed n\u00e1s Piskin s\u00a0Bluebellem, kte\u0159\u00ed m\u011bli na expedici m\u00e9n\u011b \u010dasu a m\u00ed\u0159\u00ed d\u00e1l do 15 km vzd\u00e1len\u00e9 Nikkaluokty a odtud pak autobusem a pozd\u011bji vlakem p\u0159es Helsinki dom\u016f. My jdeme sp\u00e1t op\u011bt se soumrakem. Pomalu se dost\u00e1v\u00e1me do klasick\u00e9ho expedi\u010dn\u00edho rytmu. Us\u00edn\u00e1me se zapadaj\u00edc\u00edm sluncem p\u0159ed dev\u00e1tou a vzh\u016fru jsme se setm\u011bn\u00edm mezi p\u00e1tou a \u0161estou. Povalujeme se tak n\u011bjak zhruba do sedmi, pak pomalu sn\u00edd\u00e1me, je\u0161t\u011b kaf\u00ed\u010dko \u017ee ano, bal\u00edme a mezi dev\u00e1tou a des\u00e1tou se vyd\u00e1v\u00e1me na cestu. Nen\u00ed kam sp\u011bchat. Nevyru\u0161uje n\u00e1s telefon, ani internet, proto\u017ee tu nen\u00ed sign\u00e1l. Par\u00e1da.<\/p>\n

\"\"

Kluk\u016fm se nach\u00fdlil jejich expedi\u010dn\u00ed \u010das a mus\u00ed stihnout autobus v Nikkaluoktce – zbytek expedice stav\u00ed kemp<\/p><\/div>\n

\"\"

Ohe\u0148 z mokr\u00e9ho b\u0159ezov\u00e9ho d\u0159eva<\/p><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

\"\"

Klasick\u00fd laponsk\u00fd kemp<\/p><\/div>\n

Cel\u00fd n\u00e1sleduj\u00edc\u00ed den je klasick\u00e1 vod\u00e1ck\u00e1 Han\u010dovina, olejovit\u00fd olej ve v\u011btru, kter\u00fd navzdory meandr\u016fm nefouk\u00e1 nikdy do zad. Ale cokoliv je lep\u0161\u00ed ne\u017e t\u0159icetikilov\u00fd b\u00e1gl na z\u00e1dech. Nav\u00edc pou\u010deni z\u00a0na\u0161ich p\u0159edchoz\u00edch v\u00fdlet\u016f v\u00edme, \u017ee nakonec stejn\u011b doraz\u00edme do c\u00edle. A to se tak\u00e9 po n\u011bjak\u00fdch p\u011bti hodin\u00e1ch p\u00e1dlova\u010dky stane.<\/p>\n

\"\"

Volejnat\u00e1 \u0159eka a mordor se bl\u00ed\u017e\u00edc\u00ed<\/p><\/div>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Nikkaluokta, necel\u00e1 polovina putov\u00e1n\u00ed, jedin\u00fd mo\u017en\u00fd bod \u00fastupu a posledn\u00ed styk s\u00a0civilizac\u00ed na dal\u0161\u00ed dlouh\u00e9 dny. Z\u00e1stupy turist\u016f tu \u010dekaj\u00ed na autobus a my zji\u0161\u0165ujeme, \u017ee jde z\u0159ejm\u011b o d\u016fle\u017eit\u00fd v\u00fdchoz\u00ed bod pro t\u00faru na nejvy\u0161\u0161\u00ed kopec \u0160v\u00e9dska Kebnekeise ty\u010d\u00edc\u00ed se opod\u00e1l. O n\u011bco v\u00fd\u0161 k\u00a0dal\u0161\u00edmu jezeru si dokonce m\u016f\u017eete nechat dopravit b\u00e1gly za p\u00e1r \u0161v\u00e9dsk\u00fdch korun vrtuln\u00edkem.<\/p>\n

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Posledn\u00ed civilizace na dal\u0161\u00ed t\u00fdden putov\u00e1n\u00ed<\/p><\/div>\n

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34 kg – asi jsme dokoupili moc j\u00eddla<\/p><\/div>\n

Podle p\u016fvodn\u00edho pl\u00e1nu tu str\u00e1v\u00edme voln\u00fd den, su\u0161\u00edme v\u011bci, dokupujeme z\u00e1soby, pijeme lok\u00e1ln\u00ed podivn\u00e9 pivo a dojde i na sob\u00ed hamburger. Z\u00e1soby dopl\u0148ujeme dokonce tak aktivn\u011b, \u017ee n\u00e1sleduj\u00edc\u00edho dne z\u00e1v\u011bsn\u00e1 v\u00e1ha u vstupu do turistick\u00e9ho centra nav\u00e1\u017e\u00ed b\u00e1glu 34 kg, co\u017e zap\u016fsob\u00ed i na policistu na dovolen\u00e9, kter\u00fd mi nech\u00e1v\u00e1 pot\u011b\u017ekat sv\u016fj desetikilov\u00fd bat\u016f\u017eek. No, s\u00a0t\u00edm by se \u0161lo par\u00e1dn\u011b.<\/p>\n

Zem\u00ed nikoho<\/h3>\n

Vyr\u00e1\u017e\u00edme na dvoudenn\u00ed p\u0159echod zem\u011b nikoho k \u0159ece Kaitum\u00e4lven. Posledn\u00edch p\u00e1r set metr\u016f si je\u0161t\u011b u\u017e\u00edv\u00e1me such\u00fdch bot, jejich\u017e \u00e9ra kon\u010d\u00ed na prvn\u00ed louce za vesnic\u00ed. B\u011bhem n\u00e1sleduj\u00edc\u00edch dvou dn\u016f budeme pravideln\u011b brodit mo\u010d\u00e1ly sahaj\u00edc\u00ed mnohdy a\u017e ke kolen\u016fm a boty n\u00e1m a\u017e do konce expedice neuschnou. Cesta je sice zna\u010den\u00e1, ale ro\u010dn\u011b j\u00ed projde jen p\u00e1r dobrodruh\u016f, a tak jsou d\u0159ev\u011bn\u00e9 l\u00e1vky vedouc\u00ed mo\u010d\u00e1ly v b\u00eddn\u00e9m stavu, mnohdy dokonce neviditeln\u011b potopen\u00e9 pod mok\u0159ady.<\/p>\n

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Jedna z posledn\u00edch nerozsekan\u00fdch a such\u00fdch l\u00e1vek<\/p><\/div>\n

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Posledn\u00ed odpo\u010dinek p\u0159ed stoup\u00e1n\u00edm<\/p><\/div>\n

Velmi rychle stoup\u00e1me na n\u00e1horn\u00ed plo\u0161inu, kde ve v\u00fd\u0161ce okolo 900 m ji\u017e nejsou ani b\u0159\u00edzy. Jen nekone\u010dn\u00e1 pust\u00e1 krajina pln\u00e1 li\u0161ejn\u00edk\u016f. Po dvaceti kilometrech bereme za vd\u011bk malinkou nouzovou chati\u010dkou Vuoktajohka v\u00a0jej\u00edm\u017e okol\u00ed se pasou des\u00edtky sob\u016f. V\u00a0noci a cel\u00fd dal\u0161\u00ed den m\u00e1 pr\u0161et, vm\u011bstn\u00e1me se tedy tak akor\u00e1t ve \u010dty\u0159ech na zem, abychom udr\u017eeli stany v\u00a0suchu.<\/p>\n

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Nab\u00edr\u00e1me nadmo\u0159skou v\u00fd\u0161ku<\/p><\/div>\n

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N\u00e1horn\u00ed pustina<\/p><\/div>\n

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Odpo\u010dinek v polovin\u011b u \u0159eky – je vedro<\/p><\/div>\n

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Jarda hled\u00e1 cestu co nejsu\u0161\u0161\u00ed nohou v ba\u017ein\u00e1ch nad \u0159ekou<\/p><\/div>\n

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Suchou nohou to nejde<\/p><\/div>\n

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Nejvy\u0161\u0161\u00ed bod dne\u0161n\u00edho dne<\/p><\/div>\n

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Duha a pod n\u00ed des\u00edtky los\u016f<\/p><\/div>\n

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Vuoktajohka<\/p><\/div>\n

R\u00e1no je \u0161ediv\u00e9, mlhav\u00e9, de\u0161tiv\u00e9 a s\u00a0minim\u00e1ln\u00ed viditelnost\u00ed. Den jako stvo\u0159en\u00fd pro sebevra\u017edu, tedy dal\u0161\u00ed dlouh\u00fd pochod s\u00a0t\u011b\u017ek\u00fdmi batohy p\u0159es mo\u010d\u00e1ly v\u0161eho druhu. Po p\u00e1r kilometrech de\u0161tiv\u00e9ho putov\u00e1n\u00ed ale zdol\u00e1v\u00e1me nejvy\u0161\u0161\u00ed bod cel\u00e9 plo\u0161iny a pod n\u00e1mi se objevuje kone\u010dn\u011b Kaitum, jeho\u017e 110 km n\u00e1s \u010dek\u00e1 v\u00a0n\u00e1sleduj\u00edc\u00edch dnech.<\/p>\n

\"\"

Petr odpo\u010d\u00edv\u00e1 v de\u0161ti sm\u011brem na Kaitum<\/p><\/div>\n

Na b\u0159ehu \u0159eky je opu\u0161t\u011bn\u00fd ryb\u00e1\u0159sk\u00fd kemp Tjuonajakk a v\u00a0de\u0161ti bereme za vd\u011bk jednou z\u00a0otev\u0159en\u00fdch star\u00fdch hobit\u00edch chatek, kter\u00e1 je sice pln\u00e1 my\u0161\u00edch bobk\u016f, ale pro \u010dty\u0159i packraftery znamen\u00e1 pohodl\u00ed p\u011btihv\u011bzdy Ritz. N\u00e1ladu n\u00e1m zved\u00e1 tepl\u00e1 pol\u00e9vka a zpr\u00e1va ze satelitn\u00edho Garminu, \u017ee nadch\u00e1zej\u00edc\u00ed dny by m\u011blo b\u00fdt op\u011bt slu\u0161n\u00e9 po\u010das\u00ed.<\/p>\n

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Kaitum, kone\u010dn\u011b<\/p><\/div>\n

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V de\u0161ti jsme st\u0159echou nad hlavou nepohrdli<\/p><\/div>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

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Dal\u0161\u00ed kr\u00e1sn\u00e1 noc<\/p><\/div>\n

110 kilometr\u016f na Kaitum\u00e4lven<\/h3>\n

Garmin se neplete. Ne\u017e sta\u010d\u00edme r\u00e1no vyplout, oblaka se zdvihaj\u00ed a je tu dal\u0161\u00ed na Laponsko nep\u0159irozen\u011b tepl\u00fd pozdn\u011b letn\u00ed den. Prvn\u00ed kilometry na Kaitum\u00e4lven jsou op\u011bt volejnat\u00e1 Han\u010dovina, sem tam s men\u0161\u00edm proudem, za to s n\u00e1dhern\u00fdmi panoramaty hornat\u00e9ho Laponska v\u0161ude kolem. Ze b\u0159ehu na n\u00e1s kouk\u00e1 los, sem tam se v b\u0159\u00edz\u00e1ch mihne sob\u00ed st\u00e1do. \u0158eka se \u010das od \u010dasu rozte\u010de malou pe\u0159ej\u00ed, aby za n\u00ed op\u011bt utichla. A\u017e po patn\u00e1cti kilometrech putov\u00e1n\u00ed se definitivn\u011b zu\u017euje a na \u0159ad\u011b je prvn\u00ed par\u00e1dn\u00ed \u00fasek Liettikkuikka zna\u010den\u00e1 jako WW IV. Jsou tu velk\u00e9 vlny, ale jinak nic, co by p\u0159ek\u00e1\u017eelo jej\u00edmu proplut\u00ed.<\/p>\n

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Jako ka\u017ed\u00e9 r\u00e1no, zabalit, nafouknout a hur\u00e1 na vodu<\/p><\/div>\n

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Prvn\u00ed metry na \u0159ece Kaitum<\/p><\/div>\n

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Voyager a prvn\u00ed pe\u0159ejky<\/p><\/div>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

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Ryba\u0159ina u ob\u011bda<\/p><\/div>\n

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Liettikkuikka<\/p><\/div>\n

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Luk\u00e1\u0161 a Eddy na WW IV, sp\u00ed\u0161 trojce<\/p><\/div>\n

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Jarda o n\u011bco n\u00ed\u017ee<\/p><\/div>\n

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Par\u00e1dn\u00ed \u0159eka<\/p><\/div>\n

\"\"

Petr sj\u00ed\u017ed\u00ed vlnu<\/p><\/div>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Pod pe\u0159ej\u00ed \u0159eka uh\u00e1n\u00ed d\u00e1l dvojkov\u00fdmi a trojkov\u00fdmi \u00faseky a\u017e k\u00a0vyhl\u00e1\u0161en\u00e9mu m\u00edstu Stuor Kartje. \u0160estkov\u00e1 pe\u0159ej se n\u00e1m naho\u0159e moc l\u00edb\u00ed, ale dole zase v\u016fbec ne. Je tu p\u00e1r strm\u00fdch stup\u0148\u016f s\u00a0jedinou mo\u017enou teoretickou variantou vlevo zakon\u010denou brut\u00e1ln\u00edm v\u00e1lcem. To u\u017e ale ude\u0159ila p\u00e1t\u00e1 odpoledn\u00ed a my stav\u00edme p\u0159\u00edmo u pe\u0159eje stany, koupeme se a dop\u0159\u00e1v\u00e1me si vydatn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed n\u00e1lo\u017ee ve\u010de\u0159e. Po revizi proviantu jsme zjistili, \u017ee na p\u0159edpokl\u00e1dan\u00fdch 5 dn\u016f na \u0159ece m\u00e1me j\u00eddla mo\u017en\u00e1 o n\u011bco v\u00edce, ne\u017e je t\u0159eba.<\/p>\n

\"\"

WW V – Stuor Kartje, kempujeme a r\u00e1no p\u0159en\u00e1\u0161\u00edme<\/p><\/div>\n

\"\"

Zaslou\u017een\u00e1 koupa\u010dka nad pe\u0159ej\u00ed<\/p><\/div>\n

Malebn\u00fd z\u00e1pad slunce st\u0159\u00edd\u00e1 je\u0161t\u011b kr\u00e1sn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed \u00fapln\u011bk a nejkr\u00e1sn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed rozb\u0159esk, kdy se po chladn\u00e9 mo\u017en\u00e1 nulov\u00e9 noci bor\u016fvky pomalu zbavuj\u00ed jinovatkov\u00e9ho n\u00e1nosu. To u\u017e ale miz\u00ed spole\u010dn\u011b s\u00a0dal\u0161\u00ed ka\u0161\u00ed v\u00a0na\u0161ich \u017ealudc\u00edch.<\/p>\n

Packrafty nafukujeme p\u0159\u00edmo v\u00a0baz\u00e9nku pod pe\u0159ej\u00ed a trojkov\u00fdmi \u00faseky uh\u00e1n\u00edme d\u00e1l k\u00a0p\u011btkov\u00e9 perli\u010dce Unna Kartje, kterou po d\u016fkladn\u00e9 prohl\u00eddce trochu o\u0161ul\u00edme lini\u00ed pod\u00e9l lev\u00e9ho b\u0159ehu. Pod n\u00ed \u0159eka na zbytek dne v\u00fdrazn\u011b zpomal\u00ed, a\u017e se okolo \u010dtvrt\u00e9 u\u017e nechce p\u00e1dlovat d\u00e1l. Omylem toti\u017e nach\u00e1z\u00edme par\u00e1dn\u00ed m\u00edsto na stany na kamenit\u00e9 vyv\u00fd\u0161enin\u011b nad \u0159ekou. Krom\u011b n\u00e1dhern\u00e9ho v\u00fdhledu je tu i ohni\u0161t\u011b s\u00a0ro\u0161tem na ryby a z ti\u0161iny nad pe\u0159ejkou nakonec vyt\u00e1hneme sivena a \u0161tiku. Rozd\u011blat ohe\u0148 v\u00a0mrholen\u00ed se setm\u011bn\u00edm sice zabere dost \u010dasu, ale stoj\u00ed za to. Ryby chutnaj\u00ed jako\u2026 \u010derstv\u00e9 ryby. Co v\u00edc si p\u0159\u00e1t.<\/p>\n

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Tak takhle to pote\u010de dnes<\/p><\/div>\n

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Prvn\u00ed \u00faseky pod Unna Kartje<\/p><\/div>\n

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Stuor Kartje WW V – no mo\u017en\u00e1 III – IV = jedeme<\/p><\/div>\n

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Ob\u011bdov\u00e1 ryba\u0159ina a op\u011bt nic<\/p><\/div>\n

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Den se ch\u00fdl\u00ed ke konci a voda zklid\u0148uje<\/p><\/div>\n

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Kone\u010dn\u011b ve\u010de\u0159e – siven a \u0161tika<\/p><\/div>\n

\u017div\u00e1\u010dka jsme nevid\u011bli od opu\u0161t\u011bn\u00ed Nikkalukkty\u00a0a nezm\u011bn\u00ed se to ani dal\u0161\u00edho dne, ve kter\u00e9m se vrac\u00edme zp\u011bt do civilizace nejd\u0159\u00edve svi\u017en\u011b trojkov\u011b tekouc\u00ed a n\u00e1sledn\u011b absolutn\u011b klidnou \u0159ekou. Ve vesnici Kaitum podj\u00ed\u017ed\u00edme \u017eelezni\u010dn\u00ed most, p\u0159es kter\u00fd jsme jeli p\u0159esn\u011b p\u0159ed dvan\u00e1cti dny, a nekone\u010dn\u00fdmi p\u00e1dlova\u010dkami p\u0159es jezera pln\u00e1 stovek labut\u00ed v pozdn\u00edm odpoledni kotv\u00edme v Killinge. Je tu silnice, p\u00e1r dom\u016f, ale nikde ani noha. Cestu d\u00e1l m\u00e1 brzdit \u0161estkov\u00fd vodop\u00e1d, jen nev\u00edme, kudy na n\u011bj. Nakonec vypou\u0161t\u00edme po proudu dron, kter\u00fd po dvou kilometrech letu zjist\u00ed, \u017ee nad pe\u0159ej\u00ed se d\u00e1 bezpe\u010dn\u011b p\u0159ist\u00e1t. Po kr\u00e1tk\u00e9 plavb\u011b kotv\u00edme nad n\u00e1dhernou pe\u0159ej\u00ed Killingilinkka, kter\u00e1 je zakon\u010den\u00e1 po\u0159\u00e1dn\u00fdm se\u0161upem do obrovsk\u00e9ho v\u00e1lce, z n\u011bho\u017e ve svitu posledn\u00edch slune\u010dn\u00edch paprsk\u016f vyskakuj\u00ed proti proudu lososi. Stav\u00edme stany u chaty nad vodop\u00e1dem a do setm\u011bn\u00ed se koch\u00e1me tou par\u00e1dn\u00ed pod\u00edvanou.<\/p>\n

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Cestou sm\u011br osada Kaitum<\/p><\/div>\n

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Voyager v jedn\u00e9 z trojek<\/p><\/div>\n

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Sem tam vrac\u00e1\u010dek<\/p><\/div>\n

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Kaitum a \u017eelezni\u010dn\u00ed most – tudy jsme jeli p\u0159ed 11 dny<\/p><\/div>\n

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Nekone\u010dn\u00e1 jezera nad Killinge<\/p><\/div>\n

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WW VI – Killinge – dal\u0161\u00ed m\u00edsto na p\u0159esp\u00e1n\u00ed<\/p><\/div>\n

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Vysou\u0161en\u00ed vlhkosti v mobilu<\/p><\/div>\n

Do c\u00edle na\u0161eho putov\u00e1n\u00ed zb\u00fdv\u00e1 n\u011bjak\u00fdch 45 km, a proto\u017ee \u010dasu m\u00e1me nadbytek, je\u0161t\u011b v\u00edce zpomal\u00edme a u\u017e\u00edv\u00e1me si zbytek \u0159eky do syta. Ve spodn\u00edm toku u\u017e nen\u00ed tak opu\u0161t\u011bn\u00e1, na b\u0159ehu stoj\u00ed sem tam chaty, za to je stejn\u011b kr\u00e1sn\u00e1 jako v\u00fd\u0161e, a je\u0161t\u011b o n\u011bco z\u00e1bavn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed. Vodop\u00e1d \u00fast\u00ed v\u00a0dlouhou sekci kr\u00e1sn\u00fdch pe\u0159ejnat\u00fdch p\u011btek, \u010dty\u0159ek a trojek, kterou se po bedliv\u00e9m prohl\u00ed\u017een\u00ed ka\u017ed\u00e9ho \u00faseku nakonec prob\u00edj\u00edme po n\u011bjak\u00fdch t\u0159ech hodin\u00e1ch bez ztr\u00e1ty kyti\u010dky. Ostatn\u011b klasifikaci je tu nutn\u00e9 br\u00e1t s\u00a0rezervou. Vody je m\u00e9n\u011b, ne\u017e je obvykl\u00e9, a laponsk\u00fdm zvykem b\u00fdv\u00e1valo hodnotit pe\u0159eje pro plavbu na k\u00e1noi \u2013 pro packrafty je tak trochu p\u0159est\u0159elen\u00e1.<\/p>\n

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Startujeme pod Killinge<\/p><\/div>\n

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S\u00e9rie p\u011btek, \u010dty\u0159ek a trojek za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1<\/p><\/div>\n

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Voyager obst\u00e1l na v\u00fdbornou<\/p><\/div>\n

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Posledn\u00ed \u010dty\u0159ka<\/p><\/div>\n

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Na konci zakon\u010den\u00fd slu\u0161nou vlnkou<\/p><\/div>\n

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Pr\u00e1sk<\/p><\/div>\n

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Jarda a Eddy s n\u00e1kladem na palub\u011b = \u017e\u00e1dn\u00fd probl\u00e9m<\/p><\/div>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Zdr\u017een\u00ed na t\u011b\u017ek\u00e9 divok\u00e9 vod\u011b n\u00e1m bohat\u011b vynahrad\u00ed rychle tekouc\u00ed \u0161irok\u00e1 \u0159eka, se kterou splouv\u00e1me dal\u0161\u00edch deset kilometr\u016f za pades\u00e1t minut a kotv\u00edme u dal\u0161\u00ed otev\u0159en\u00e9 turistick\u00e9 chaty.<\/p>\n

Krom\u011b nekone\u010dn\u00e9ho stojat\u00e9ho \u00faseku u osady Neitisuando \u0159eka proud\u00ed i dal\u0161\u00ed den, jeho\u017e pozdn\u00ed odpoledne si vychutn\u00e1v\u00e1me v\u00a0ryb\u00e1\u0159sk\u00e9m p\u0159\u00edst\u0159e\u0161ku vybaven\u00e9m v\u0161\u00edm, co je k\u00a0p\u0159\u00edprav\u011b ryby pot\u0159eba \u2013 pokud bychom tedy n\u011bjakou chytili.<\/p>\n

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Hled\u00e1n\u00ed cesty v map\u011b<\/p><\/div>\n

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Je\u017e\u00ed\u0161<\/p><\/div>\n

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Posledn\u00ed noc<\/p><\/div>\n

A pak u\u017e je tu konec. T\u011bsn\u011b p\u0159ed hlavn\u00ed silnic\u00ed spojuj\u00edc\u00ed Gallivare s\u00a0Kirunou se Kaitum spojuje s\u00a0\u0159ekou Kalix\u00e4lven a jej\u00ed jm\u00e9no nese d\u00e1l a\u017e po \u00fast\u00ed do Botnick\u00e9ho z\u00e1livu. Pro na\u0161i cestu je to v\u00edce ne\u017e symbolick\u00e9, nebo\u0165 se op\u011bt setk\u00e1v\u00e1me s\u00a0vodou, kterou jsme vid\u011bli p\u0159ed 11 dny pramenit vysoko v\u00a0hor\u00e1ch, pod\u00e9l n\u00ed\u017e jsme \u0161li, ne\u017e se stala sj\u00edzdnou \u0159ekou, kterou jsme 3 dny jeli do Nikkalaukkty a kterou jsme v\u00a0okam\u017eiku, kdy se vlila do jezera Paittasj\u00e4rvi, opustili. Ona v\u0161ak \u0159adou jezer tekla d\u00e1l, aby kousek pod Kirunou op\u011bt utvo\u0159ila \u0159eku, nyn\u00ed v\u0161ak ji\u017e s\u00a0n\u00e1zvem Kalix\u00e4lven.<\/p>\n

Po dvou t\u00fddnech se kruh uzav\u0159el a p\u00e1n s\u00a0b\u00edl\u00fdm vousem a vl\u010d\u00e1kem na vod\u00edtku na n\u00e1s vesele m\u00e1v\u00e1 ze silni\u010dn\u00edho mostu. Kdyby v\u011bd\u011bl, \u017ee je prvn\u00ed \u017eivou bytost\u00ed, kterou potk\u00e1v\u00e1me za posledn\u00ed t\u00fdden, jist\u011b by p\u0159inesl plechovku Budvaru nebo Kru\u0161ovic, jak se na \u0161v\u00e9dsk\u00e9 pivn\u00ed pom\u011bry slu\u0161\u00ed a pat\u0159\u00ed.<\/p>\n

Jen\u017ee nev\u011bd\u011bl a nep\u0159inesl a mo\u017en\u00e1 dob\u0159e. P\u0159i velmi pomal\u00e9m balen\u00ed si sami m\u016f\u017eeme vychutnat posledn\u00ed chv\u00edle u \u0159eky.<\/p>\n

Jako bychom cht\u011bli plout d\u00e1l a za zat\u00e1\u010dkou zase zmizet na \u0159ece meandruj\u00edc\u00ed v\u00a0les\u00edch.<\/p>\n

Jako by se n\u00e1m z\u00a0toho nekone\u010dn\u00e9ho ticha h\u0159m\u00edc\u00edch pe\u0159ej\u00ed necht\u011blo zp\u011bt\u2026<\/p>\n\n\t\t